Modern retro vibe: Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G Salmon Dial

Watches and Wonders is a great show for Patek Philippe. While their brand new watch is getting a lot of attention, they also released a pair of watches in a dial color they describe as a rose gold plated opal, commonly known as salmon. Today, we’re going to take an in-depth look at the hand-wound Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G Salmon Dial.

history
Chronographs have long been part of the Patek Philippe catalog, first appearing in 1924. This particular design would stand out in our eyes today because of its stacked configuration, with subdials appearing at 12 and 6 instead of the more common 9 and 3 o'clock. Since then, Patek Philippe’s chronograph movements have relied on external sources – until 2005. That year, they released the 5959P, a split-seconds chronograph. In 2009, they released their own hand-wound movement (29-535 PS), the same year the Ref 5170 watch was released. The 5170 ran for ten years until it was retired in 2019 to make way for the 5172.

plan the details
The change from 5170 to 5172 is very noticeable. While you might think of the Patek Philippe 5170 as a dress watch, the 5172 pushes things in a more casual direction. It also embraces the philosophy of traditional design, returning directly to the retro look while giving way to modern preferences. For a contemporary look, the case size was increased from 39mm to 41mm, the hands were replaced by luminous syringe hands, and the printed Roman numerals were replaced by applied Arabic numerals (also luminous). We also prefer the extra glowing dots at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, which are absent on the 2019 version.

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To balance the design, the watch has a healthy dose of retro looks. For one thing, just stare at those Art Deco lugs. These look like the side of a tube radio sitting on a table and easily take you back to that era. Correspondingly, the pushers are simple drop-in pushers (as opposed to the 5170's square pushers), flanking the crown, which is now slightly recessed into the case.

Another major change to this particular reference to the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G is the application of salmon tones. When the watch launched in 2019, it appeared in dark navy blue. It's a classic look to platinum with a more modern feel. While the salmon dial has been very popular over the past few years, we think its use on the dial actually pushes the watch towards a vintage look, achieving what a watch with a "faux patina" dial could only dream of. In other words, this dial, combined with the other elements we've mentioned - along with the boxed sapphire crystal - truly holds in the wearer's mind as a watch from a bygone era.

inner work
The Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G houses the manual-winding CH 29-535 PS movement, which provides a 65-hour power reserve, complementing the watch’s retro look. The astute will note that this is indeed the same movement that powers the 5170 series. If it's not broken, why fix it? As always, this movement is manufactured in-house and bears the Patek Philippe seal of quality. Looking at the movement through the exhibition caseback is a gazing at the art of mechanics.

Since it's hand-wound, you can see all the main components, and the finishing touches make it clear that this is a movement worth a look. All chamfers on the components are done by hand and polished, offset by the Côtes de Genève and the circular texture that appears on the parts. You can also clearly see the engagement of the chronograph and the 4Hz frequency at which the hairspring gallops away to drive the movement.

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competing with
The Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G's most obvious competitor will be its predecessor, the 5170. While this would be a very good route, we might suggest a Patek Philippe 5370. While the dial layout looks very similar to the 5172 (as they both use a similar movement), things are made more formal and modern with polished numerals and square buttons. The main difference of the 5370 is that it is a split-seconds chronograph. Set the button on the crown and you can time two things (say, two runners on a track) with a single chronograph.

If you prefer a sportier orientation, the FP Journe Chronographe Rattrapante is where you should shine your searchlight. While it still offers a manual-winding dual-second chronograph (like the 5370), the overall look of the watch is that of a sports watch, here in platinum rather than steel. With a lugless design, square pushers and a large date display, this is a very modern chronograph.

If we were to match the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G to someone in real life, it would be the kind that appreciates the good things of the past. Maybe not a trip to a resale store for a find, but one who embraces the idea that a well-crafted suit or dress, or welted leather shoes will last a lifetime and be timeless. Yes, this lifetime buying mentality can be applied to all sorts of things (even watches), but there's a reason for opting for more sophisticated attire. You may not wear that suit or dress every day, but it is always an option that will last through the years and always look good. The Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G can be served in much the same way, perhaps not for everyday wear, but always ready to be called.

Of course, if you're looking for that timeless watch, you can go in a lot of different directions, appreciating complications, and even leaning toward design. For us, the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G perfectly captures the beauty of a vintage chronograph, while giving the necessary nod to modernity and watchmaking prowess. There's neo-vintage, and then there are watches like this that give that look and it's effortless, all without needing to put that label on itself. It may seem like a bygone era, but it's still valid today - no doubt it will still be the same story decades from now.

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